Top critical review
Don't buy if you liked Into Thin Air
Reviewed in India on 12 October 2018
Though this book is supposed to be a classic, I was very disappointed. To me a book about the thrills and experience of climbing mountains should be expressed in the way John Krauker did in Into Thin Air. A story about climbing these mountains should not be just about finding the route and climbing up the mountain - it should be how humans are pushed to their very best and very worst when climbing such mountains and staring into the face of death. There is no thrill in this book. All expedition members are great Frenchmen, have great characters, are brave and ideal and honorable and large-hearted. People lose fingers and toes, but they are such great souls and lionhearts that no one complains and everyone remains at their best behaviour. Sorry, but the human soul and human nature is not like that; or, at any rate, if it were so, it makes for uninteresting reading. Told in very unremarkable language, this is just a story of finding and climbing and then getting down a very tall mountain - the tallest attempt at the time it was made. Overall, very disappointing and textbook-ish read for what is supposed to be a mountaineering classic!